Located 100km south of Hanoi, Ninh Binh province is known as the land of Halong Bay thanks to its breathtaking natural scenery of sheer karst cliffs, lush green rice paddies and a wide river winding through the wild valley. An essential stopover in northern Vietnam, a few days in Ninh Binh promises magnificent memories in the heart of a calm, unspoilt natural environment.
Tourist attractions in Ninh Binh
While the city of Ninh Binh is the main gateway to the province, it’s best to head straight to Tam Coc, the ideal base for exploring the surrounding area. Tam Coc is part of the Trang An landscape complex, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The complex includes the ancient capital of Hoa Lu, the Bich Dong pagoda and the Ngo Dong river caves. But Ninh Binh province has many other wonders to offer, which I suggest you discover in this article.
Trang An heritage complex
Tràng An landscape complex was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014. This ‘terrestrial Ha Long Bay’ is a spectacular landscape of karst peaks criss-crossed by valleys, some of them submerged, and framed by steep, almost vertical cliffs.
The entrance fee to Trang An is VND 200,000/adult. The price level includes a ticket for a boat trip to Trang An by waterway on the Sao Khe River. Each boat has a capacity of around 4-5 people and the journey takes around 3-4 hours.
Hoa Lu ancient capital
The capital of Vietnam between the 10th and 11th centuries, strategically built by the emperor Dinh Tien Hoang at a distance from the Chinese border, the two temples dedicated to the Dinh and Lê dynasties are the only buildings still visible today.
Bich Dong pagoda
Also known as the Jade Pagoda, the Bich Dong Pagoda is located 2km north of the centre of Tam Coc. The foundation stone was laid in 1428 during the reign of the Le dynasty, and the pagoda has expanded over the centuries. Today, the site comprises three pagodas at different heights. From the lower pagoda at the foot of Jade Mountain, take the staircase to the middle pagoda, set into the rock, then continue up to the upper pagoda. At the top of the latter, there is a pretty sanctuary and a panoramic view of the surrounding area.
Bai Dinh Pagoda
- Address: Gia Sinh Commune, Gia Vien District
- Entrance fee: free. Electric car: 60,000 VND/person/trip, operating until 8:00 PM
Covering more than 500 hectares, this is the largest pagoda in Southeast Asia. From the entrance to Bai Dinh Pagoda, you enter covered passageways lined with 500 stone statues of Arhat (devotees who have attained the highest level of Buddhist wisdom). You then reach the Phap Chu pagoda, where you can admire one of the largest Buddhas in Vietnam. Another site of interest is the 13-storey pagoda containing the largest copper bell in the country. The pagoda is located 11 km north-west of the town of Ninh Binh.
Van Long nature reserve
The Van Long nature reserve is often overlooked by tourists because of its remote location, 24km from Tam Coc. This protected reserve is home to many species of birds. You can set off to meet them in wooden boats through rice paddies and reed fields.
Thung Nham Bird Park
Less than 10 km from Tam Coc, the Thung Nham Bird Park is home to a multitude of wild bird species. Covering an area of 334 hectares, you can also explore hidden caves. The Thung Nham park offers a range of eco-tourism activities, perfect for eco-responsible travellers.
Interesting activities
Explore Mua Cave and climb Reclining Dragon Mountain
Mua Caves is a pretty limestone cave at the foot of Mua Mountain, also known as Reclining Dragon Mountain (a statue of this mystical creature sits atop the mountain). While the cave itself is of little interest, the main reason for visiting Mua Caves is to climb the 500 steep cliffside steps that lead up to a landscape worthy of a Tam Coc postcard. On one side, the view is of the Ngo Dong river winding through the valley below.
On the other, the landscape is punctuated by green karst cliffs, rice paddies and a lotus field. Access to Mua Caves costs 100,000 dong (less than €4) and is located on the road leading to Tam Coc from the town of Ninh Binh. Access is free if you stay at the Mua Caves Ecolodge.
Boat trips on the Ngo Dong river
One of the most popular activities in Ninh Binh province is a trip in a traditional boat, called a Sampan, on the rivers of Tam Coc. The Ngo Dong River is the main channel leading to the mysterious caves of Tam Coc. On this trip, the water is calm and serene, disturbed only by the sound of paddles and birdsong.
The boats are usually manned by locals, some of whom have their own homes on the riverbank. The unusual thing is that the rowers steer the paddles with their feet! It is customary (and obligatory) to tip them 150,000 dongs per person (around 6 euros) on the way home. A boat can carry a maximum of 2 people (not including the rower). The trip lasts around 2 hours in this setting straight from another world.
Explore secret caves
The name Tam Coc means ‘three caves’ in Vietnamese, and it’s during a boat trip on the Ngo Dong river that you can admire these three geological wonders. Equipped with headlamps, the rowers of the boats plunge into the underground galleries, which are so dark as to be mysterious. At the end of each cave, as the half-light gives way to natural light, an idyllic landscape of karstic cliffs and lush vegetation is revealed. The best time to enjoy the caves is in the late afternoon. That’s when you’ll find yourself surrounded by this unreal and peaceful setting, where you can simply marvel at the unspoilt nature.
Pedal through the rice fields
The narrow roads of Ninh Binh are perfect for practising scooter riding in Vietnam, but they are also the subject of some lovely bike rides, which can be hired from most of the province’s accommodation and restaurants. With green rice paddies as far as the eye can see, cycling through lush green landscapes surrounded by gigantic sugar loaves offers an incredible sense of freedom and an unforgettable experience.
Ninh Binh’s main roads are in very good condition, but the smaller paths require extra care to avoid the large gravel stones. You may come across a few scooters or other four-wheeled vehicles, so it’s important to remain vigilant, even though there is much less motorised traffic than in the capital.
Practical information for visiting Ninh Binh
Getting to Ninh Binh from Hanoi
To get to Ninh Binh from Hanoi, you can take the train from Hanoi central station to Ninh Binh station. The journey takes 2 hours and costs between 100,000 and 220,000 dongs each way (i.e. between €4 and €8). You will need to use another means of transport (such as a taxi) from Ninh Binh to get to Tam Coc or the surrounding sites.
Local buses also run from Hanoi’s My Dinh bus station to Ninh Binh. They make several stops along the way, but almost all end their journey at Ninh Binh bus station. Less comfortable and longer, the bus is a less attractive option than the train. The price of a one-way bus ticket is almost the same as a one-way train ticket.
For travellers with several passengers, a private taxi is another option for getting to Ninh Binh. The advantage is that it will take you exactly where you want to go (to the address of your accommodation, for example). However, the cost is much higher (over 1,300,000 dongs, or more than 50 euros).
The last option is to book your return journey to/from Hanoi in a private minibus with a local agency in the city. You are guaranteed a comfortable and better quality service. The one-way fare is more expensive than a local bus. You should expect to pay at least 170,000 dongs (more than 6 euros) for a single journey per person.
Getting to Ninh Binh from Halong Bay
Halong Bay and Ninh Binh province are less than 200km apart. It’s easy to travel between the two, especially by bus. Local buses make the 5-hour journey from Bai Chay bus station in Halong town to Ninh Binh bus station. You will need to take a taxi to get to the Bai Chay bus station from the Halong Bay cruise pier.
More comfortable but more expensive, private minibuses are another option for getting to Ninh Binh from Halong Bay. These buses can accommodate between 9 and 16 people and take a minimum of 3 hours to complete the journey. A single ticket costs around €13. A trip in a private minibus can be booked through a local travel agency or on the 12go.asia website.
Get around
In Ninh Binh province, travellers get around by bicycle or scooter. The bicycle is perfect for short distances, particularly between the various sites around Tam Coc. The scooter is very useful for exploring less-visited corners of the province. Bicycles and scooters can be hired directly from your accommodation. You should expect to pay an average of €2 a day for a bicycle and €10 a day for a scooter.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Ninh Binh is between November and March during the dry season, which is characterised by infrequent rain, cool temperatures and cloudy skies. I visited Ninh Binh at the beginning of March and although the weather was cool and dry, the sun only came out at the end of the day. April and May generally enjoy clearer weather. June to August are very hot and humid. The months to avoid are September and October, when there are many rainy spells.
How long will it take to visit Ninh Binh?
A 2 or 3-day stopover is the ideal length of time to visit Ninh Binh’s main sites of interest. Some travellers visit the province on a day trip from Hanoi. Many agencies offer an all-inclusive excursion from the capital (lunch, return trip from accommodation, activities, visits) at an average price of VND1,300,000 (around €50) per person.
Where to stay in Ninh Binh?
The two main areas for accommodation in Ninh Binh province are the town of Ninh Binh and the town of Tam Coc. Ninh Binh is advantageous because its bus station caters for buses from Hanoi and Halong. However, some of the sites are a long way from Ninh Binh. Tam Coc, on the other hand, is not served by public transport – you have to take a taxi from Ninh Binh bus station – but it has the advantage of being close to the main sights.
The car journey from Ninh Binh to Tam Coc takes just 10 minutes, so it’s better to stay in Tam Coc as there is a wide range of accommodation (from simple hostels to more comfortable ecolodges) and more activities. Most accommodations offer bike or scooter hire and perhaps even transfers to/from the city of Ninh Binh.
